A banana leaf meal in the middle of the rainforest

A meal served on a banana leaf at Samy’s Curry at Dempsey Road. They serve traditional south Indian food.

The Singapore scene is one that is constantly changing. In a short span of a year, new roads and buildings have appeared, with new eating places that support the vibrant food culture of this place.

Nestled amongst lush rainforest trees along Dempsey Road is Samy’s Curry, that serves up south Indian cuisine on a banana leaf.

Samy’s Curry at Depmsey Road is comfortably nestled amongst a thicket of rainforest trees. The lush leaves cool the atmosphere, even on a hot tropical day.

Eating on a banana leaf was a more common sight in Singapore about twenty years ago. These days, only specific Indian eateries and restaurants serve their meal on a banana leaf, one of them being Samy’s Curry. Their waiters walk around carrying tins of spicy looking concoctions that smell as delicious as they looked! Their mission is to re-fill the banana leaves on tables that threaten to go almost empty of these side dishes.

Indian cuisine in Singapore is characterised by the use of spices such as cardamon, cinnamon, fennel, cloves and nutmeg. Coconut milk is often used in curries and plain yoghurt is also used in their cooking. Indian food can also be largely vegetarian, so one can find the most delectable vegetarian dishes in this restaurant, alongside barbequed chicken, squid and fish. Curried gourds, aubergine, ladies fingers and lentils are a staple in vegetarian dishes. Potatoes find their way into curries quite comfortably too, giving the curry a thicker texture.

Freshly squeezed lime juice accompanied this meal; the drink complementing the curried food.

The banana leaf used in Singapore seems simpler compared to those used in India. Here, only half of the plantain leaf (split from its spine) is used to serve food. In India, the type of plantain leaf is used to convey the social status and the financial background of the family serving the meal. The leaf is also divided into sections where certain dishes are placed in different corners of the leaf.

The restaurant attracts a large expatriate crowd. Its large grounds make customers feel right at home under colonial looking fans.

In Indian tradition, food is eaten either seated on the ground or seated on cushions with low tables. Cutlery can be requested at this restaurant, though it is not uncommon to eat with your hands, straight off the banana leaf. The whole idea is not to grease up or dirty the entire palm of your hand with curried food, but use only the tips of your fingers when eating. As I found out years ago, eating with your hands requires quite a bit of skill and it is not as easy as it looks.

Plain white yoghurt that is sour to the tastebuds, is often served last at the meal, in order to bring balance to the spicy dishes served during the meal, and it’s believed to help ‘cleanse’ or calm the stomach.

Hot tea with milk makes a good beverage to most Indian cuisine. On this particular occasion though, the tropical heat seemed to favour an ice-cold drink. Samy’s Curry serves very good freshly squeezed lime juice that mellows out the spiciness of the dishes and cools the body instantly!

Their opening hours.

Dempsey’s is today, a place of restaurants and antique shops, which draws both expatriates and locals alike. It’s a recommended swing by for a variety of food, when in Singapore.

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Bibliography

  • Indian Foods, that explains the different sections of the plantain leaf when food is served on it.
  • More pictures of Indian cuisine

Christmas light-up in Singapore, 2008

A Christmas Tree stands in front of Tanglin Mall, at the end of Orchard Road.

It’s been a rainy past few days in Singapore, which is typical weather for the monsoon season in this part of the world, in Southeast-Asia.

Despite the undercurrents of the world financial crisis, the Christmas spirit is nonetheless present here in the Lion City and Orchard Road, which is its main shopping district, is once again lit in an array of designs and colours to mark this Christmas season.

Large flowered chandeliers and a cascade of stringed lights can be found in the circular foyer of Tanglin Mall, which stands at the end of Orcahrd Road, next to Traders Hotel.

It isn’t only the streets that become decked with lights for this festive season but the insides of shopping malls blossom in deep reds and greens.

The Christmas light-up begins at the end of Orchard Road, at Tanglin Mall…

and then intensifies as it reaches Wheelock place, which is about almost 1 km down.

The colour theme along Orchard Road this year seems to be purple and silver. Red hearts hang on street lamps, reminding us of the giving during this season. In other shopping centers, Christmas trees with large golden orbs hanging on them attract attention from both young and old, locals and foreigners alike.

I think people can’t help but feel like shopping, even in this economic downturn.

Swedish apples in late autumn

Apple picking in late autumn.

The end of autumn brings about all things Apple, because it is during the late autumn that the various strands of Swedish apples, about thirteen sorts all in all, ripen to fill the average garden with fragrant apple scents. Walking in an apple tree garden that is ripe for the picking is so dreamy that one can’t help but spontaneously pull out relevant recipes of apple pies, apple cakes and apple buns!

As it happened, a neighbour of ours had an abundant crop of Gravenstein apples this year and had invited us over to their place, to help with the apple picking. In return for the help, we could bring home as many apples as we could possibly carry with us. It sounded like too much fun to miss out on, so we were there, all geared up for the apple-picking!

Gravenstein apples ripe for the picking.

The Gravenstein variety of apples has been around in Sweden for about 300 years. It has a wonderfully round personality, being fantastically fragrant, very juicy and of a size that fits generously into the palm of your hand. The Swedes consider this the Rolls Royce of Swedish apples and the best one could do with this variety of apples, is to make apple sauce out of them.

It was quite a sight with fresh apples littering the garden!

If apple sauce isn’t a favourite food, then this variety of apples is also well suited as dessert apples or used in main meals, complementing white meats for example. Generally any recipe that melts them halfway to the core and makes them dissolve in your mouth when eating, is well suited for the Gravenstein.

Gravensteins sitting pretty in a laundry basket.
The advise was to treat the apples as we would eggs, since bruised apples tend to rot in the basket first.

The making of apple sauce takes very little effort. The apples need to be skinned and cored. They could also be quartered or left halved and thrown into a large pot placed on very low heat. Once the amount of apples fills the pot, toss in a few cinnamon sticks and simmer for an hour or so. As the apples melt together, add sugar to the desired sweetness. Whether the apple sauce should remain chunky with large bits of apple pieces in the sauce, is also up to the cook to decide. The longer the apples stay on the heat, the more liquid it becomes.

The apple picking event rendered a total of about 30kgs of Gravenstein apples for us, where we set about to make scrumptious apple juice out of some of them at first opportunity!

Frangrance review: Chanel Allure Eau de Parfum

Rojjana Petkanha for Chanel Allure.

I’ve always loved Chanel fragrances as they never seem to tire through the day.

Launched in 1996, Chanel Allure is a sophisticated mix of Oriental florals like Bergamot, Mandarin, Water Lily, Magnolia and Jasmine. Its complexity as a scent and its intrigue increases when a hint of Rose begins to come forth as the scent settles. It’s sensuously subtle vanilla base notes appears after the scent matures on the skin.

Depending on skin chemistry, I find Chanel Allure a parfum that can bring you from day to night. The lighter, young sophisticate beats of Allure compliments most occasions, in comparison to Allure Sensuelle, which is perhaps more suitable for the dark winter nights. The light powdery scents of Allure also brings me home to days when I was a child, laying snug and cozy under newly washed comforters.

Surströmming, a traditional Northern Swedish dish

A bulging can of surströmming can strike lust in some Swedes and dread in others. The can of surströmming bulges with the fermentation process and some lovers of this dish would prefer to have it a year after its expiry date. This particular bulging beauty expired in December 2006.

Mention the word ‘surströmming’ or fermented herring to a Swede, and you’ll get an array of reactions that range of disgust to salivate rapture. There is hardly any neutrality when it comes to surströmming; one is either ardent or appalled.

In olden days this traditional northern Swedish dish was a poor man’s meal. It possibly came to be when the lack of salt while trying to preserve it led to its fermentation, with its resulting bouquet. Then eventually as with the bubbles in Champagne, the defect product turned into a desired specialty.

In my years in Sweden thus far, surströmming was the one dish that grew to be a legend with me; I’ve often heard of it but never encountered it. It was always suggested, “You should try surströmming”, but never executed because nobody wanted the stink of the fermented herring in their house.

Surströmming come canned from a variety of producers, and can be bought off the shelves in the supermarkets in Sweden. Kallax, the blue can shown above did not fare too well in the consumer reviews this year, as reported by Göteborgs Posten. As can be seen from the flat - not bulging - lid, it was probably just not fermented long enough *tsk tsk*.

Apparently worse than the smell of baking belachan (a variety of Malay shrimp paste), opening a can of surströmming would stink up the entire household and half the street you’re living on. The pungent smell has a reputation of ruining everything from the taste of butter on the table to curtains in bedrooms.

While surströmming is a ‘social dish’ where the more the merrier to the meal, almost everyone I met told that surströmming, if eaten indoors, should be eaten with all windows and doors to the dining room shut and all doors to rooms closed too, so that the pungent odour of the dish would be contained.

Needless to say it is difficult to eat surströmming when living in an apartment, since within a few minutes of opening a can, you’ll hear neighbours clamoring to ventilate their apartment. Some might even suspect there to be a dead rat somewhere in the ventilation shafts. On the other hand, after the ruckus subsides, neighbours in the know and who are fans of the dish, will silently come knocking at your door to be invited to the meal perhaps bringing an extra bottle of aquavit as a consolation gift.

An opened can of surströmming.

From description and hearsay, I gathered that the fermented stink of surströmming was more potent than that of the durian fruit. Intrigued, I began to find the whole experience of eating this dish promising. So when the opportunity arose to try surströmming with good friends of ours, I was quite excited. I wondered if I would love it or hate it.

A pungent odour indeed arose when the first can of surströmming was opened. There was no smell of ammonia, for which I was grateful for and for that reason, found it more bearable than expected, and after awhile, the smell was all but forgotten.

Surströmming is a social dish where people often spend hours at the table filleting the fish and putting together their own favourite sandwich combination of condiments. In my hand, a print out of songs, to be sung during this surströmming dinner.

The fermented herring looked slick in the can. For die-hard fans of surströmming, the can of fermented herring is best eaten a year after its expiry date. Like a good wine that ages with the years, the herring should be left to take its time to come to a ripened fermented state. In time the fish would eventually disintegrate in the can, leaving nothing to consume. Then and only then it would be considered slightly overripe.

About half of the herrings, the females, come with roe, and this is a prize to the true surströmming lover. It’s considered rude to rummage the entire can to pull out only the ones with roe in them so this is generally done as discreetly as possible. Anyone who pulls out a fourth consecutive roe-filled herring with a ‘oooh how luuucky I am’ will however see a lot of unconvinced faces around the table.

A surströmming sandwich roll in the making.

The herring in the cans come whole and one has to fillet the fish before eating. Condiments usually found on the table with fermented herring include finely diced red onions, crème fraische (a soft whipped cream), butter, bread and small potatoes.

Left: A variation of the surströmming roll. This recipe’s by ICA, one of Sweden’s largest food chains.

There are several ways of eating fermented herring, where the most common is to eat them with potatoes. This is closely followed by a popular version of fermented herring in a sandwich, either on thin hard bread or on thin soft bread that can be rolled.

Filleting the fish could prove tricky, since all small bones and skin are to be removed before eating. I gather I wasn’t too successful on my first try with this since I ended up eating bones, skin and flesh alike in my sandwich. But my technique improved as did my sandwiches as the evening wore on.

In my Asian-Scandinavian repository of flavours, where lightly cooked cockles are found in Singaporean dishes such as laksa and char kway teow (fried flat rice noodles), the closest I can compare the taste of fermented herring to is salted raw cockles. Its bouquet, I would describe as something similar to a pungent French cheese or comparable even, to the aroma of the durian fruit.

The verdict? I loved it.

The phrase that oddly comes to mind is that fermented herring as a dish ‘warms the cockles in my heart’. And to share a tradition that has lived with my north Swedish husband from when he was young, is perhaps the most heart-warming of all in this entire meal experience.

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One of my favourite Swedish songs, dedicated to the surströmming:

Melodi: Kärringen från Kärringön

Nu har vi samlats för att njuta doften av denna fisk
som legat lagrad hela sommarn.
Tror någon den är frisk?
Lukten som sprids omkring i rummet kan kallas för pikant,
men vi vet andra hemska saker som ju luktar likadant.

Den allra piggaste lilla strömming som nånsin simmat i Östersjön
ligger nu stilla
och luktar illa,
men ändå tycker vi den är skön.

Nu skall den göra sista färden ner i vår mages djup.
Simmar i bästa dryck i världen som finns i denna sup.
Låt oss nu alla tömma glasen såsom en fin salut
medan vi konstaterar fakta; detta är ju Absolut.

Den allra godaste lilla strömming som nånsin simmat i Östersjön
skal vila stilla
i magens lilla,
sen simma vidare efter dö’n.
Skåål

Bibliography

The Vatican City and its treasures

Small treasures on this trip to the Holy See - fresh summer fruits and some time away from the mid-day sun. This particular café served a good range of lunches from pizzas to fresh fruit and ice-cream.

We parked our car in Rome and then in all of about 300 meters, it seemed we were standing right in the middle of a different state; the Vatican City.

The Vatican state and its structures, to me, seemed to blend seamlessly with everything else Roman. Large, majestic looking sculptures, passageways and corridors that seem almost too large for any efficient or practical use of space, making one feel almost insignificant when walking about. I can imagine the purpose of the imposing structures from ancient times, that people needed to feel the power of the ruling, for the masses to feel at once diminished, yet safe. The structures work to the very same purpose today, except with a different flavour.

As a tourist, it’s splendid with so much space to conquer during your visit. And the Vatican state allows you these conquests as it invites hoards of visitors into its arms, into its heart which is St. Peter’s Basilica and into its treasure filled museum wings. The high arches and open spaces aid in dispensing with the overly crowded feel; a feel that Venice for example, could not overcome.

A curious feature: an Egyptian obelisk stands in front of St. Peter’s church.

Though small as a state, by foot, the grounds of St. Peter’s Basilica are still vast, with an intriguing sight of an Egyptian obelisk in the middle. Its slightly skewed alignment to Michelangelo’s building is said to have been compensated by Maderno’s nave inside the Basilica.

Italy during the summer can be scorchingly hot, so hats, sunglasses, sunblock and bottled water will be handy when walking about. Around the Basilica, you’ll find vendors selling iced bottled water at the stands, though slightly more expensive than plain (or sun-warmed) bottled water.

The Sistine Chapel was on the agenda for us, as with many other tourists, and as we made our way there, we were introduced to numerous works of art from the various museums.

The inner courtyard of the Vatican. Visitors can take a walk in this courtyard whilst visiting the various museums, on the way to the Sistine Chapel.

The inner courtyard was a picture of serenity, with well pruned trees and large sculptures of peacocks and large acorns carved in stone. Visitors are allowed to stroll the grounds of the courtyard and garden, though in the hour and heat of this particular day, few (in comparison to the immense crowd in the museum wings) chose to do so.

Magnificent paintings can be found on domed ceilings, along the way to the Sistine Chapel.

As I walked along the corridors of the museum, entering and exiting each wing, I realized that what I would have liked to do most was to not walk at all. In fact, I would have preferred to just lie down on the ground and observe the intricate details of the many domed ceilings that all of us were so casually bypassing beneath. For within the Vatican City, on the way to the Sistine Chapel, right up to the Basilica from its side wing, are wondrous works of art and architecture, in the ceilings.

A pattern of mathematical precision that leaves one contemplating.

The symmetry in design and the execution of the structure makes these domed ceilings a work of mathematical genius and masonry. One could contemplate their work for hours on end, at will.

One of the most magnificent ceilings in gilded gold, along a museum corridor.

It felt like hours before we had reached the most famous of sacred chapels, but we soon found ourselves at the core of the Vatican labyrinth, as if hidden amongst various rooms of various sizes, the Sistine Chapel.

Upon entering the Sistine Chapel, I at first thought that we had entered a mass in progress. Countless individuals stood almost in neat rows, looking forward at a small stage that was the altar. But it was soon discerned that there was no priest presiding and that the constant hushing noises made to keep down the buzz of the room came from security guards. If there was a moment’s silence in the room, it was likely the result of awe at the brilliant works of art displayed.

By Michelangelo, The Donnadio: God creates Adam, the Sistine Chapel.

But with so many beautifully decorated domed ceilings that created a heightened anticipation of what was to come in the Sistine Chapel, my expectation of a close encounter with Michelangelo was tepid after a quick sweep around. Like not wanting to read reviews to a movie because of the potential spoilers, I wanted to view the Sistine Chapel without prior influences and thus did very little, if no research to the place prior to my visit.

The ceiling paintings of Michelangelo, of the Sistine Chapel

The Donnadio: God creates Adam was my favourite scene in the Sistine Chapel, and it was that which I searched. Looking up from where I stood in the chapel though, I found I could hardly recognize The Donnadio, from all other scenes. It took me quite awhile to locate it. The space between ground and ceiling somehow drove home the point of centuries past.

The crowd grew louder and less controlled as more people moved into the room, and we reluctantly relinquished our spots to make way for new visitors. We then focused on our next view of conquest, the Basilica of St. Peter.

A view facing the altar with Bernini’s 30 meters tall baldacchino.

If the Sistine Chapel proved a lukewarm reception by Michelangelo, then walking into the Basilica of St. Peter proved the opposite. Within that building, one could feel the reverberating genius of Michelangelo; his visions supported by many other like-minded artists and visionaries.

The Basilica of St. Peter is large; its size compared to other great basilicas around the world is proudly marked on the marbled floors of this Basilica.

A partial view of Maderno’s nave, looking towards the chancel.

The theme of beautiful domed ceilings throughout the Vatican state is also reflected on the insides of the Basilica.

This domed ceiling was brought to its completion in 1590, by Giacomo della Porta and Fontana.

Towards the entrance of the Basilica, to its right upon entering, stands the Pietà by Michelangelo. It took a few minutes before we could make our way to the front of the crowd to look at it. Even at the front, the Pietà stood a few feet beyond, behind glassed walls.

People both pray at its feet and stand before it in full admiration of its warmth, as so only a great artist can invoke in us with his work.

Though behind glass these days, the Pietà by Michelangelo still captures the audience’s attention.

As we left St. Peter’s Basilica, the late afternoon sun made other Vatican City realities apparent to us; its uniformed (or costumed) guards for instance.

The Vatican’s Praetorian guards.

Though standing in the shade of the walls of St. Peter’s Basilica, the guards looked nonetheless warm in their tight fitted boots, long puff-sleeved outfits, high starched collars and berets.

A post-box that stands right outside the Vatican postal office, a few hundred meters away from the entrance of St. Peter’s Basilica.

And just in case one hasn’t quite taken in the fact of such great encounters within the Vatican City, a friendly yellow post-box stands there, ready for the sending of some international well-wishes.

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Bibliography

Drawing by Welles Tan

A caricature of me, by graphic designer Welles Tan. Welles also does silhouette cutting and you can find more of his work at geocities.com.

Getting to love the seasons

Under an ivory BCBG Max Azria mid-length puffa jacket.

After several years in Sweden, I’m beginning to understand the seasons, and I’m loving them!

Puffa jackets come in a variety of designs, where belted down jackets are seen most on the streets these days.

My favourite jacket to combat the nordic cold is this ivory down puffa jacket from BCBG Max Azria. It wraps around you like a warm blanket and you can look forward to some winter white, easy.

Piazza San Marco: the heart of Venice

In front of the Doge’s Palace, St. Mark’s Square in Venice.

When visiting Venice, it isn’t difficult to gravitate with the crowd and find your way to the heart of Venice itself, the Piazza San Marco or St. Mark’s Square.

I agree with art historian Hugh Honour when he described the Piazza San Marco as “beautiful at all times of day or night” (2001). The piazza, like a compass to Venice, it contains so many interesting facets that contribute to the personality of Venice itself, that we found ourselves drawn back to St. Mark’s Square several times during our stay there.

Basilica Di San Marco.

The wide space, devoid of any modern day traffic, is devoted solely to travel by foot. Souvenir vendors line the late 13th century herring-bone paved square, the patterns on the pavement reminiscent of the market stalls that traded in the square centuries before. The bustle is no less today, the colourful summer clothes of tourists around the square add to the festive feel of the place during the day.

A cozy sight is the vast number of pigeons that swelter in the shady pavement under the high arches of St. Mark’s basilica away from the direct heat of the hot summer sun, oblivious to the curious tourists seeking out their interests to the corners of the square. Continue reading ‘Piazza San Marco: the heart of Venice’

Aging elegance in Louis Vuitton

Sean Connery, for Louis Vuitton.

I’ve been following Louis Vuitton’s Core Value advertisements for some time, with photos by Annie Liebovitz. A common theme that runs through the pictures is a relaxed atmosphere. As a viewer, you get an understanding that the subjects have come to a point in their lives where they feel most comfortable with themselves. It isn’t that the pictures aren’t doctored but in these days of botox and superplastic-me reality shows, LVMH together with Liebovitz bring in their advertisements well grounded sensibility and to me, true knowledge of what is beautiful, timeless and to be cherished.
Continue reading ‘Aging elegance in Louis Vuitton’