Winter’s Sunday brunch along the Swedish west coast

Swedish west coast winter in February 2012

February scene, Swedish west coast.
Text and Photo © JE Nilsson and CM Cordeiro 2012

February is usually the month in which visitors to Scandinavia get to witness the Nordic winter in its full regalia of climate beguile, the whipping winds and cold pelting rain that now turn to delicate snow crystals upon falling down, blankett the entire landscape in crisp white, turning the dull grey of the surrounding in just a few hours, to a scene that is breathtakingly beautiful, even if at the same time being unforgivingly, impractically and cruelly cold.

Yellow

Yellow.

Nonetheless, the group of individuals from South American countries who were on a visit to Sweden, continued to walk around in cheerful disposition and observed in awe, the rows of houses situated along the shoreline of one of the archipelago islands in the Swedish west coast, coming to the definitive conclusion that ownning a house here would be one of the most romantic things they could dream of in terms of life wishes. I looked at them in earnestness and couldn’t help but smile, my heart warming. For I am myself, all too well aware of the enticing charms of the Nordic Gods who as if in celestial trickery, send fat cuddly snowflakes that resemble chicken feathers in the air, enveloping you as you arrive at the airport to depart Sweden for warmer climates, or likewise, send you clear blue skies with full sunshine as you land at the airport as a Welcome Home to Sweden greeting. Scandinavia is charming indeed, apt to capture your heart even during its coldest months of the year and I can understand why they all wish to stay a little longer here in Sweden.

Wall decoration, Swedish west coast, Sweden.

Nautical wall decoration that reflects one of Sweden’s best loved past times in the summer along its west coast – sailing!

Swedish west coast, kitchen with sail tiles.

Tulips and Sailboats.

We settled down today to a Sunday brunch in a house with a white walled cozy interior decorated in part to a nautical theme that is reminescent of many houses built along the Swedish west coast. Sailing is after all both leisure and livelihood for many along this coastal stretch, its activity is a lifestyle woven intricately into the days here with the locals to the area making their living from fishing, mending yacht sails to trading via international sea freight.

On the menu, traditional Swedish yellow pea soup – a dish that has surprised me in that it is one culinary pleasure that has not made it to the Christmas Tables in Sweden in the way that the Swedish meatballs, lingon and brown sauce have. All perhaps having to do with that pea soup was served on Thursdays as a cheap but energy rich and filling meal in Sweden right up to the 1500s, in preparation to Friday fasts, and that Christmas was technically not a period of fasting but of feasting, when animals were sacrificed, which meant that the serving of meat took precedence at the Christmas feasts.

Yellow peasoup, a Swedish Classic.

Peasoup in pot.

The tradition of eating yellow pea soup in Sweden goes back to the time of the Vikings because the peas could be dried and kept through the year. When served with salted pork shank, it made this warm dish an immediate staple on the Swedish household menu because the economic combination of both its main ingredients meant it could be served year round in the cold Nordic regions. In the winter months, the peas are simply added to the salted broth of hams with a handful of chopped onions, spices, bay leaves and thyme to render this wonderfully aromatic soup.

Sausage to peasoup, Swedish west coast Sunday Brunch in winter.

Sausage with peasoup.

Tomato bread to yellow peasoup, Swedish west coast Sunday Brunch in winter.

Tomato bread.

We had sausage and mustard to this soup today. On the side, slices of tomato bread that I thought captured the spirit of the warm sun through the windows this morning. Sweet Punsch usually accompanies this meal, as was served onboard the Swedish East Indiaman Gotheborg in the 1700s, where they too adhered to the tradition of pea soup Thursdays. This Sunday however, we settled for a choice between tea or coffee.

Talk revolved around our various current projects at work and in life, from behavioural economics in Columbia, agriculture and irrigation techniques in Chile to the need for mathematics at university level for social sciences in Uruguay and back to Chile’s government policies on minimum wages. The cheerful disposition remained, with those at the table convinced that whatever challenges we might face today, that there were like-minded people like they who worked for a better tomorrow!

Wine Bar at Soup ‘n Bagles

Cheryl Marie Cordeiro, Svante Boberg who is owner of Sou''n Bagel and Sandra Lam Carlsson.

An evening of open wine testing at Soup’n Bagel. In the middle, owner Svante Boberg and to the right friend and colleague Sandra Lam Carlsson.
Text and Photo © JE Nilsson and CM Cordeiro 2012

In from the biting cold of winter that is still in the air in Sweden, I thought the cozy, dimlit interior of Soup’n Bagel by night in the city of Gothenburg set the perfect calm and mellow atmosphere for an evening of wine tasting and long conversation amongst good friends.
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HBR and pie

Cheryl Marie Cordeiro 14012012

The best breakfasts come from not planning any at all.
Text and Photo © JE Nilsson and CM Cordeiro 2012

It’s been just about three weeks since the winter solstice here in the northern hemisphere. Where I sit along the Swedish west coast, the days get longer by about two minutes each passing day, the sun still rising at about 08:45 hrs in the morning and setting still before 16:00 hrs, at least for another week or so.

06:00 hrs on a Saturday morning, with a click of a mouse, I pull up daily news from CNN, the BBC, the New York Times, Svenska Dagsbladet, Corriere della Sera, China Daily etc. and find myself browsing information on the continuing Euro crisis, the civil unrest in Syria, the cruise ship Costa Concordia running aground in Italy, Taiwan’s exciting but tense upcoming elections as Beijing watches hawk-eye etc. Through all those bits of news I realize how it is sometimes difficult to fathom the very idea of happiness.

Ketamined from the news, you sit back, take a deep breathe and find yourself confronted with what seems like life’s utmost fundamental existential questions – Who am I? What am I? Why am I here? and What’s for breakfast?
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Dulce de Leche thoughts in the stillness of the first week of 2012

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A dulche de leche breakfast with homemade rye bread.
Text and Photo © JE Nilsson and CM Cordeiro 2012

The first day of the New Year is usually known as ’Pizza Day’ in Sweden, only because people here have partied too much, too fast, too hard the previous night that ordering pizza to the home, or simply settling down in a restaurant for one seems to put into command everything else that is not, for the moment. It’s worry free.

Connected to being worry free that to me is like the experience of having caramelized condensed milk on bread at breakfast as a Madeleine moment these days, is also the experiencing of the calm at work this first week in 2012.

At this time of year in Sweden, most people are still on holiday leave and it is perhaps the last few days of the festive season where you can continue experiencing the stillness and tranquil of the short days, grey blanket in the evening skies, before speed sets in again at the office that continues till just before the summer season.

But for the Swedish Handelsbanken, the first week of the year isn’t quite as still as all might have hoped due to a slight glitch in PR or due to the efforts of one over-zealous employee, who had circulated via the internet, the company’s in-house Christmas Letter, resulting to it being picked up by the Swedish newspapers.

In the world of corporate talent management that is my daily reality, there is nothing more cogent than aligning corporate strategy with human capital and talent development (MIT Sloan Management Review), which was what I thought the President and CEO of Handelsbanken, Pär Boman did well in his Christmas Letter to the employees of the organization.

Reading through the letter where amidst the numbers, the usual organization motivation talk and jargon, what hit home with me were the words of the very last paragraph, where against the so well-known consensus seeking, lateral and decentralized management style found in Swedish organizations, came Boman’s call for the “traditional, central directive” to employees, to “…withdraw from all the stress and work, light a candle, look out of the window at the snow and enjoy an extra good cup of coffee and some Christmas cakes…. [because] we’re well worth it…”

Dulce de Leche indeed.

A magical evening with Ulf Wagner at Sjömagasinet, in Gothenburg 2011

Cheryl Marie Cordeiro with house elves at jultide, Sjömagasinet 2011

Restaurant decoration at Sjömagasinet. In Swedish folklore well managed farm houses was looked after by their own house elf or elves. They were quiet and mostly invisible but kept themselves informed from the animals if everything was done right and proper. The house cat was their eyes and ears during daytime. If the people were good, the elves would help take care of the house and the family that lived there. Eventually these elves merged in Swedish lore with the later idea of a Juletide Tomte that brings the Christmas gifts.
Text and Photo © CM Cordeiro, JE Nilsson and T Eliasson, 2011

In the past years, we’ve dined enough at Sjömagasinet in Gothenburg (2009a, 2009b, 2008, 2007) to feel quite at home at what was once the old outfitting warehouse for the Swedish East India Company (1731-1813). In the 18th century their ships made round trips from Gothenburg to China and back where each trade voyage took about two years, bringing back immense fortunes for the participants.

During their many voyages these ships would dock at various ports around the world including Cadiz in Spain, to pick up silver and Batavia in Indonesia for spices, before reaching Canton in China. Besides tea, silk and spices they contributed significantly to the cultural exchange of knowledge between Sweden and Asia and brought back many important influences, not the least within the medical and culinary field that is so intriguingly interconnected. In this wharf equipment were stored such as sails, masts, spars and all things you might imagine being needed on a wooden ship about 50 meters long. The spirit of these adventures is still felt in the very walls of this building.
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Christmas postcard from Sweden, 2012!

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Photo © CM Cordeiro and JE Nilsson 2011

Christmas Eve morning at Saluhallen in Gothenburg at 09:01 hrs

Going to the market, is just … going to the market, isn’t it? So mundane a task that it’s hardly a concept to be discussed by most. But come Christmas in Sweden, and come the darkest days of the year, the Swedish Christmas markets that glow a warm orange and red whether they be outdoors or indoors become central gathering nodes for the people of the city.

Christmas Eve morning at Saluhallen 2011, chairs.

And all was apparently still on Christmas Eve morning as the doors to the marketing heart of Gothenburg that is Saluhallen was opened.
Text and Photo © CM Cordeiro and JE Nilsson 2011

Cheryl Marie Cordeiro, in the morning at Saluhallen in Gothenburg, Christmas market 2011

The early morning calm didn’t quite stop me gushing in haste when my eye caught a table decoration I so wanted at home at our Christmas table!

Everyone has a Christmas foodlist for their own Julbord to tend to, making Christmas Eve marketing all the more festive. And amidst waiting in queue for your number to be served, you can hear the hearty exchange of Christmas recipes amongst those waiting in line for baked ham, pickled herring and roasted spare ribs that gives a heartwarming preview of what others are about to have this evening at home.

In my number of years in Sweden, I’ve visited these Christmas markets year after year, with Saluhallen and Haga in 2010; 2009a, 2009b; Kronhuset in 2009; a compilation of Saluhallen and Haga in 2008; Haga in 2007, to which I’ve always found something new in my explorations and visits.

This year’s visit is a slight variation, an authentic visit to a market on Christmas Eve for some Christmas marketing, instead of visiting a ‘Christmas Market’.

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Jultide traditions at the GU School of Executive Education, University of Gothenburg

GUSEE Julbord 2011 - Sandra Lam-Carlsson, Cheryl Marie Cordeiro and Jenny Yu.

At the GU School of Executive Education’s Julbord 2011, Sweden.
L-R: Sandra Lam-Carlsson, Cheryl Marie Cordeiro and Jenny Yu.

Text and Photo © PO Larsson, CM Cordeiro, JE Nilsson 2011

In line with the underlying ideals and innovative thoughts in the culinary field from this year’s Prins Bertil Seminar 2011 at the School of Business, Economics and Law at the University of Gothenburg, that raised the level of consciousness about food in general, from farm to restaurant table and how the best dishes can be had from simply using the freshest ingredients and not necessarily the most fancy and exclusive of raw produce, it was the initiative of Dr. Per-Olof Larsson (CEO of the GU School of Executive Education), followed by a very Swedish consensus style organization meeting that we tried our hand at a traditional homemade Julbord or Swedish Christmas smörgåsbord this year, to put a touch of rustic heart into our Jultide celebrations.
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Lulling hours in Shanghai, where old meets new…

Cheryl Marie Cordeiro, Yuyuan, Shanghai 2011.

Along the streets at Yuyuan, Shanghai.
Text and Photo © CM Cordeiro 2011

Waking up in China’s largest city that is Shanghai, amongst its more than 24 million inhabitants certainly puts a perspective on how much of an impact you might make during a single day in your life when you finally step out the door and make your way around with your errands.

In just about twenty to thirty years, Shanghai as a city has grown at an amazing speed. The skyscrapers seen today along the Huangpu River, The Bund and Lujiazui were non-existent just a stone’s throw back in time, where it would’ve been difficult for most anyone to recognize the landscape and skyline of the central finance district between these decades if you were not at first shown pictures of the landscape from then till now.

The past decade alone has seen a paradigm shift in Shanghai from a city with Communist ideals to one that is cosmopolitan with a global outlook. Much of this is the fruitful result of the Chinese government’s efforts at economic reforms in China beginning in the late 1970s and early 1980s.

If any organization could trace and reflect an aspect of Shanghai’s modern history in global trade and the resulting impact of the Chinese government’s efforts at bringing China and its state-owned enterprises to the global scene, then Baosteel Group Corporation, the second largest steel producer in the world with approximate annual revenues of around USD $21.5 billion would be a good case study to examine. With 45 wholly owned subsidiaries in markets across the world, in countries with as diverse cultures such as Brazil, France, Germany, Russia and in Asian and Southeast Asian countries such as Japan, Hong Kong and Singapore , Baosteel reflects the speed and tenacity at which Chinese organizations are able to make themselves visibly global whilst simultaneously catering to their very demanding and highly competitive domestic market.

Still, amongst the city’s global ambitions supported and run by its busy inhabitants who seem to maneuver through the city via just as many noisy and exuberant vehicles that never cease their honking, you’ll find in Shanghai that some waking hours beckon a certain lull to the senses, and are in effect… quieter than others. And it is in these hours that you can sit, think and breathe the calmer soul of the city as a mist that invites you to contemplate its living as an artfully drawn landscape, one perhaps seen in Chinese watercolour on silk or paper. It is these brief lulling hours of Shanghai, at dawn or just after dusk, that paints a picture of the place both past and present, juxtaposed in front of your very eyes in material form.
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Yuyuan street eating and daily practicalities, Shanghai

Cheryl Marie Cordeiro 7 Dec 2011 Shanghai 03aWith the quick glances of distraction observed from tourists and a slight quickening of their pace past the local lunch scene at Yuyuan in Shanghai, where the local people seemed perfectly at east sitting along the roadside with their bowl of rice in one hand and chopsticks in the other, eating whilst waiting for their next customer to walk into the shop, I understood with clearing clarity that for most of Northern Europe, dining was a much more formal affair around a set table.

And the Northern European concept of dining was quite a contrast to this fairly common aspect of people eating on the move or simply eating outdoors in Asia in general. Whether in India or the various equatorial countries of Southeast-Asia such as Thailand, Vietnam, Singapore and Indonesia, or the more temperate regions of China, food sold along the streets in wheel carted food stalls and eating along the streets is as practical and nomadic as having all your goods for sale stacked onto a single bicycle or motorcycle and sold wherever you found a customer along the street.

Yuyuan wholesaler's street, Shanghai 2011.

Yuyuan Market, Shanghai.
Text and Photo © CM Cordeiro 2011

I grew up in the decades of Singapore where people did cart their goods around and sold them from their bicycles, and where food such as bowls of noodles, plates of fried kway teow and even cold food such as ice-shaved desserts called ice-kachang (a Singapore and Malaysian variation of ‘sorbets’ made from just rough shaven ice and sweetened with colourful syrup dripped all around the cone of ice shavings) were sold from wheel-carted trolleys. For warm dishes, burning charcoal was used for fuel in the mid-1900s for cooking and later on, small portable gas units were used.

Still, the scene in China is much more rustic and unaware – people just didn’t think if you stopped and stared at them eating, because for them, it was all part of the natural process of the day, just another practicality that you have to deal with, seamlessly interwoven into their main activity of the day, which is working. Living and working seamlessly – that is what you’ll witness at lunch hour at Yuyuan.

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